Setsubun: Japan’s Seasonal Festival to Chase Away Evil and Welcome Good Fortune
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What if you could drive away bad luck with a handful of beans—and welcome good fortune with a single bite of sushi?
Every year in early February, people across Japan celebrate Setsubun, a vibrant and symbolic tradition that marks the seasonal shift from winter to spring. With dramatic bean-throwing rituals, oni masks, and lucky sushi rolls called eho-maki, this centuries-old custom blends spiritual purification with playful fun for all ages.
More than just a quirky festival, Setsubun offers a powerful reminder of renewal, protection, and the joy of embracing change with open hearts—and open doors.
What Does “Setsubun” Mean?
The word Setsubun (節分) means “seasonal division.” In ancient Japan, it referred to the day before each of the four seasons. Among them, the day before spring—called Risshun—was especially important.
For people in the past, spring marked the true beginning of the year. It was the start of the farming season, when people would prepare their fields and pray for a good harvest. Families also hoped for good health and fortune in the year ahead. Because of this, Setsubun became a time to clear away bad luck and welcome a fresh start.
The Historical Roots of the Setsubun Ritual
Tsuina: A Court Ceremony of Protection
The roots of Setsubun trace back to an ancient ritual called Tsuina (追儺) or Oni-yarai (鬼やらい)—a ceremony of Chinese origin that was already being practiced at the Imperial Court during the Heian period (794–1185).
In this ritual, a fearsome figure called Fangxiangshi (方相氏), wearing a four-eyed mask, would march through the palace grounds with assistants called Shinshi (侲子) dressed in blue. They carried bows and arrows made of peach wood and reeds, which were thought to have the power to repel evil spirits.
At the same time, yin-yang diviners (onmyōji) would chant sacred texts and offer symbolic food to pacify the demons. The ceremony would conclude with drumming, signaling that the spirits had been driven outside the palace and into the corners of the capital.
From Sacred Ritual to Popular Tradition
As time passed, the court ceremony changed. The ritual figures gradually took on symbolic roles as demons themselves, and the event became more theatrical and playful rather than solemn.
After the Kamakura period, the official Tsuina ritual disappeared from palace life. But its spirit of seasonal purification survived and began to spread among the general population.
The Rise of Mame-maki
One well-known Setsubun tradition—mame-maki, or bean-throwing—appears to have developed separately from the court ritual. It likely emerged around the 14th century as a folk practice for protecting the home from bad luck and evil spirits.
By the Edo period, mame-maki had become widely popular across Japan. Families and communities adopted the practice as part of seasonal purification, contributing to the formation of the modern Setsubun celebration.
Traditional Rituals and Their Symbolism
Mame-maki (Bean-Throwing): Banishing Evil Spirits
At the heart of Setsubun is mame-maki, or bean-throwing. Participants toss roasted soybeans (fukumame) both inside and outside their homes while chanting:
Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi (Demons out, good fortune in!)
Key points about this custom:
- Traditionally, the Toshi-otoko or Toshi-onna (those born under the zodiac sign of the current year) throw the beans.
- Roasted, not raw, beans are used to prevent the growth of spiritual “impurities.”
- People often eat beans equal to their age (or age +1) to ensure good health and longevity.
Eho-maki: A Tasty Wish for Prosperity
Eho-maki is a type of thick sushi roll (maki-zushi) eaten during Setsubun as a lucky food tradition. It consists of rice and various fillings wrapped in seaweed (nori), similar to a futomaki.
The custom is believed to have started in the Kansai region, particularly in Osaka, and was not traditionally practiced nationwide. However, in recent decades, it has become popular across Japan, largely promoted by supermarkets and convenience stores.
- You must eat the whole roll in silence, while facing the year’s lucky direction (eho), as determined by the Toshitokujin, the deity of good fortune.
- These rolls often include seven ingredients, symbolizing the Seven Lucky Gods (Shichifukujin).
- Fillings vary by region and household, but the act of eating the roll this way is meant to bring health, happiness, and prosperity for the year ahead.
Hiragi-Iwashi: Nature’s Spiky and Smelly Guardian
In some areas, households place a small talisman at their entrance made of a holly branch and a sardine head. This hiragi-iwashi is believed to deter evil spirits—the holly's thorns and the fish’s odor acting as powerful repellents.
Although less common today, this practice still survives in rural Japan and as part of local folklore.
Modern Celebrations of Setsubun
Public Festivals at Temples and Shrines
Many temples and shrines across Japan hold large-scale Setsubun festivals, where celebrities, sumo wrestlers, and priests participate in mame-maki events. These public ceremonies often include performances, prayers for prosperity, and festive activities that draw both locals and tourists.
One well-known celebration takes place at Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, where bean-throwing rituals are held on a grand scale, featuring performers and religious figures.
For a more detailed look at Setsubun celebrations, especially in Kyoto:
This English article introduces the traditions and highlights of Setsubun at famous temples and shrines in Kyoto, such as Yoshida Shrine and Heian Shrine.
Although the events have already passed, this downloadable guide shows the wide range of Setsubun-related activities held across Kyoto. It’s a useful reference for future visits.
Family-Friendly Fun and Creative Foods
In modern homes and schools, Setsubun is a joyful, educational experience:
- Children often wear oni masks, and family members pretend to be demons for the bean-throwing.
- Many confectionery brands release seasonal packaging featuring beans, oni characters, or lucky motifs—making them popular gifts and party items.
- In kindergartens and elementary schools, Setsubun events are held as part of cultural education, where children throw beans at costumed “oni” (sometimes played by teachers) and learn about the tradition in fun, interactive ways.
Setsubun’s Cultural Value in Contemporary Japan
More than just a playful event, Setsubun is a celebration of renewal, protection, and tradition. Its rituals—rooted in ancient beliefs—continue to offer spiritual meaning in a modern world.
At its heart, Setsubun reflects Japan’s deep connection to seasonal change, and the belief that with a simple act—like tossing a bean or eating a lucky sushi roll—we can symbolically cast out misfortune and invite better things to come.
Whether performed at a shrine with hundreds of others or enjoyed at home with laughter and sweets, Setsubun bridges past and present, reminding us of the power of small gestures to bring hope, harmony, and a fresh start.
For many, it's not just about chasing away demons—it's about welcoming the light of spring with joy, togetherness, and an open heart.